Hi, there is a set of tools named Good Lock by which you can customize your phone. One one the possibilities is change clock position. It worked only in Oreo but yesterday has released a new version for Pie!     Long story short: Download Good Lock and QuickStar Then install both. If you are in supported country you should be able to run GoodLock and QuickStar module directly. If not you have to launch the activity. If you use launcher like Nova Launcher it supports this itself, or you can install Activity Launcher   Follow the instructions below: open Activity Launcher click the small arrow at the top, next to the "Recent Activity" select "All Activities" and find the application you want to run in the list below you can find NavStar and see that it has two activities - About and MainSettings. Select MainSettingsActivity then the application starts and you can start it   Long article unfortunatelly still only in czech is here, you can use automated translaction I believe it can help. The article is about older version but it could be still helpfull.     ... View more

# 2 The photo should be properly exposed Sure, but what does that mean? And what is it about the animal, the exposition ?   Exactly the exposure is the time how long is the film or sensor on the light. In practice, it is inaccurately used for an exposure value (EV) , which is the result of how long the illumination takes place, what is the sensitivity set, and what is the aperture number (N).   EV = 2log2N - log2t   Brrrr, Fuuu, what is it, math ?! Yes, but it's not as bad as it looks at first glance. This ugly pattern tells us that the photo is the lighter the lower the aperture number and the darker the shorter the time . This formula applies to ISO 100. Fortunately, ISO is linear, so if you double ISO, EV will double. Note: The exposure is measured at a negative logarithmic scale and the lower number means a lighter photo.  T he physicists do not complicate us at all, do we?   ISO 2x higher ISO means 2x higher exposure Time 2x longer time means 2x higher exposure F number Moving 2 aperture numbers means 2x differentexposure   What does it mean by shifting the F number? The aperture number is the ratio of lens size to focal length. And because it works with the diameter of the lens, it is an area and you have to jump in the powers of two. If, for example, we take the aperture of 1.8 as the basis, the shift by one value is about 2.5. It is always multiplied by √2 (= 1.4). In practice, the following series of basic values ​​are used: 1.0, 1.4, 2.0, 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, 45.   Example of time dependency on aperture at constant ISO: F number 1 1.4 2 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 22 Time [s] 1/500 1/250 1/125 1/60 1/30 1/15 1/8 1/4 1/2 1   Example of time dependency on ISO standing curtain: ISO 50 100 200 400 800 1600 3200 6400 12800 25600 Time [s] 1 1/2 1/4 1/8 1/15 1/30 1/60 1/125 1/250 1/500   Okay, but what can we do? The good news is that today's cameras have a very advanced auto and exposure values ​​set for you. But it does not always work perfectly.   How does the automation evaluate the exposure? The camera detects brightnesses in the scene. It can take the whole picture into consideration or take into account only the location you are focusing on, depending on the settings and application options. The Samsung camera emphasizes the focus area because it assumes that the main object is there. Then it tries to set the values ​​so that the histogram looks good in the area.   Histogram Ajaj, another concept I have not explained yet? Well: The histogram is a chart that gives us insight into what the photo exposition looks like. There is a brightness on the x-axis, the y-axis is the representation of the given brightness in the image. When the value is high, there are many points of just that brightness. The histogram has one or more vertices. The top on the left indicates that there are lots of dark pixels on the photo, the right part marks bright pixels. The ideal histogram has peaks between extreme values. If the left or right steep line is completely at the edge of the histogram, it means the image is underexposed (left) or overexposed (on the right). Properly exposed photo, the histogram only slightly touches the edges A correctly exposed photo, while the histogram strikes the right, but this is due to the range of the sensor. The price for this is the loss of drawing in the clouds. The histogram is pressed to the left and to the right. Yet it is correct because it is a dark scene with light elements. What can you do? Missing darknesses are quite easy to fix in a slightly better graphic editor, but areas without artwork can not be rescued normally (photographers are now catching their heads and shouting at me: RAW!!! and are right, but this is beyond the scope of this article). Here is the photo whis had my daughter photographed. She exposed the landscape in the shadows, so the automaton overexposed the photo. By shifting the black point, the landscape is saved, but the sky is never lost.   Overexposed photo After editing in the editor   Well, a lot of theory, but how to arrange for the photo to be exposed correctly? I recommend first try the automatic . Today it's pretty good and good scenes are good. The new models even know what you're photographed (called AI - Artificial Intelligence), and when such a mobile knows you're taking a night photo, it does not use a dumb automatic that overexposed the photo, but adjusts the settings to keep the night scene atmosphere. If the automatic fails, we can help her. Even in automatic mode, exposure compensation is available. This is especially necessary if we are shooting a scene with a large range of brightness. Maybe a Christmas tree in the dark, but with lit lights. Automation sets values ​​so that it looks like it's in the day, but we do not want it. Then we have two choices: We click on the screen where we want to evaluate the exposure (this is where you focus) We use exposure compensation and download it in this case down. Exposure compensation   What are the typical scenes where the automaton fails? (this may not apply to artificial intelligence and scene recognition) Night The camera over-exposes, the exposure compensation to minus Snow The camera is underexposed, it is necessary to move the exposure correction to the plus Scene with a large dynamic range The camera does not have the full range of brightness, it is necessary to decide whether we prefer drawing in bright or dark areas. It is usually best to sacrifice dark places. Black cat in the snow If we focus on a cat, the cat will be gray and snow like a large white area. Move the exposure to minus. If we focus on a pile of snow next to a cat, the cat will be black and the snow will be gray, you need to shift the exposure to the plus. White cat on snow Probably there will be a gray photo on the gray snow on the photo, you have to shift the exposure to the plus. Black cat on a pile of black coal The photo is probably going to be a gray cat on a pile of gray stones, you need to shift the exposure to minus.   Why the automaton fails in large-scale scenes is quite understandable, but why does not the white cat fail on the snow? The automaton assumes the ideal histogram, which has most brightness somewhere in the middle. And if the scene is too bright, shifts them a little to darker, gray. The same thing with black cats in the tunnel, the automatic moves the scene to lighter. That's fine if we want to capture the details, but the atmosphere of the scene goes into the grove.   That's why I do not like HDR . This is the process of automatically adapting dark and bright places so that they do not lose the artwork. However, the atmosphere of the scene is lost, especially at night photos that look like a daytime photograph.   Why are there any spills, and what is it that spills? Imagine the sensor cell as bucket and light (photons) as drops of water. The photons hit the sensor, causing the electric charge, as well as the water raining into the bucket and filling it. If we let the photons on the sensor or water in the bucket go too long, the maximum charge is reached for which the sensor can no longer go - and the bucket overflows. Whatever falls into it, it can no longer be measured, we would have to use a larger bucket. (The water level is the equivalent of the charge and their value corresponds to the brightness for the given point of the image). When shooting with time and aperture, we ensure that the light comes to the sensor. If there is little, the point will still be scored as black. When the power, as well as the points to be bright, will be evaluated as maximum brightness and the drawing will be lost in such areas. It is even more complicated by the fact that the red, blue and green ones are evaluated separately, so you can lose the drawing on the flower, but the leaves will still be fine. This is due to the different sensitivity of the sensor to different colors.   Mobile photo: # 1 SharpnessPrevious part is here:  ... View more

I wrote an article abou mobile photoshooting but I put it in Lounge but there it is less visible so let me know you about it: Mobile photo: # 1 Sharpness ... View more

I wrote an article abou mobile photoshooting but I put it in Lounge where it is less visible so let me know you about it: Mobile photo: # 1 Sharpness ... View more

Mobile photo: # 1 Sharpness Mobile photography and SLRs are the basicaly the same.   We want to capture a scene, to express an idea.   Perhaps we only want a Facebook image or wallpaper, perhaps we want a picture on the wall of a living room or even aspire to a wall in the Louvre, we still need to know the rules and follow them, maybe know when we break them and why. We will start with these basic rules and we will gradually work on the more complex ones. # 1 The photo should be sharp Exceptspecial cases, it is desirable in most cases for the photo to be sharp.   It's not that simple, sometimes a is required to have sharp whole photo, typically with landscape photography, sometimes we want to emphasize the central theme, and only it will be sharp and the background should be blurred.   This is called a depth of field.   OK - w e want a sharp photo - how about it? You need to realize why the photo   is not   sharp.   The most common causes are: Motion blur Wrongfocus Blur by moving the subject Dirty lens What with this?   Motion blur, along with wrong focusing, is probably the most common cause of blurry photographs.   Everyone of us shakes hands, more or less.   Blurring of the image then depends on exposure time.   Unfortunately, camera application does not show us the time, but if we switch to manual mode, we can not only see it but also change it.   The shorter the time, the bigger the chances of a sharp photo.   There is a rule that you can hold a time equal to the overturned value of the focus,   in the case of mobile phones about 1 / 25s.   Taking into account that we have effective stabilization available, we can get around 1 / 10s.   If the mobile is setting too long time, you can figure it out by increasing sensitivity   (ISO), but mobile phones are very noising, and we do not want it. You can see that   ISO 50 photo is still without noise but blurry because the time was 1 / 4s. Next photo has been taken at ISO 800 for an acceptable time of 1/60s but the noise has increased:   Aperture: f / 2.4 Time: 1 / 4s ISO: 50   Aperture: f / 2.4 Time: 1 / 60s ISO: 800 If we photograph a static scene, we can use a   tripod   .   It completely eliminates hand shake and small tripods such as GorillaPod are lightweight, and are not as expensive. Simple tripod with mobile phone adapter If we do not have a tripod at hand, the mobile can lean on something or at least lean on its own.   In the case of Note9, it will also help trigger the trigger with S Pen.   This eliminates the vibration of your mobile when touching the display.   Inappropriate focusing   you have to check.   Sometimes, however, the camera has trouble focusing.   This happens most often when there is only few light on the scene or when we try to focus on a single area (white wall, sky, paper).   The camera looks for contrasting elements on the scene and focuses on them. We can help by finding something contrasting at the same distance as the subject, focus on it, and then compile it and photograph it without further focusing.   But be careful that in automatic mode the camera also sets the exposure according to the focused scene, so if the scenes according to which we focused and the one we are shooting differs a lot, we get a badly photographed photo.   This can be fixed a bit by manual exposure adjustment during sharpening, when we simply estimate the difference in scene brightness and shift the exposure correction accordingly.   Blurring of the subject's movement   occurs when we take pictures of a tripod, for example, and a car will pass quickly. The whole scene will be sharp, but the car blurred.   This can be avoided by focusing on a place where the car will go, then changing the composition to the moving car, keeping it in focus, and pressing the trigger in the spot where we have previously focused.   All the time we have to keep the car in the picture and move by the phone!   This will make the background behind the car blur, but the car remains sharp.   I admit that this technique is quite complex on the mobile.   Dirty lens   .   You would not believe how frequent the problem is, especially since our wise manufacturers have moved the fingerprint readers alongside the camera lenses (S8 owners have something to tell).   But the truth is that even if you are careful, somebody may sneak in the lens, drop a rain drop or a snowflake on it, etc. There is nothing left to watch out for and regularly clean the lenses with a special optic cloth. I would still go back to what's supposed to be sharp on the photo.   I have already mentioned the situation with the moving car, but there is more.   Portrait eyes should be sharp, background blurred Moving objects the main object sharp, background, eventually surrounding, can be blurred both with depth of field and movement Country it should be all sharp Macro For a macro, a greater depth of field is difficult, the background may be blurred Running water the flow of water may be blurred for a long time, I will describe later   I have mentioned the   depth of field   several times.   But what is it? When you focus on a location, it will not be sharp only this, but it will also sharpen part of the image before and behind that focus.   And this range, where we see the shot as sharp, is called the depth of field.   (While the spot we're focusing on is called the plane of focus - it's not quite a plane, but rather a sphere, but it's all, just everything at that distance will be sharp perfectly and everything in the depth of field will actually be a bit fuzzy, but people they will still feel sharp).   The range of depth of field is affected by three parameters: Aperture   : The larger the aperture number, the greater the depth of field Focal distance  (zoom) : The smaller the focal length, the greater the depth of field Distance  from the object : the greater the distance from the subject, the greater the depth of field Unfortunately, mobiles do not allow for more intense work with the aperture and only limited with the focus (S9 + and the like have two or more cameras that differ in focal length.) It is called a portrait lens or a zoom in. It means in practice a greater focal length, zooming and less depth of field). I have prepared a small demonstration of the use of the aperture.   Note9 has a variable aperture, can be changed between 1.5 and 2.4, and it is beautiful to see how the background blur is changing. Aperture: f / 1.5 Time: 1 / 15s ISO: 100   Aperture: f / 2.4 Time: 1 / 8s ISO: 100 I hope you like the first part and look at the exposition next time.   Any questions I would like to answer.   ... View more

If you own a smart watch Gear S3 or Galaxy Watch, you may have thought about creating your own watchface.   Samsung offers an application for creating watchfaces, but it is quite complicated and what really matters to me, does not offer the possibilities to do something "extra". Fortunately, there are alternatives, today we are going to talk about   Watchmaker   . Watchmaker consists of two applications, one is installed in the phone and one in the watch.   Your phone has a watchface editor, and in your watch it is an universal watchface that can show what you create in your phone application.   Installation Go to the app page and install it in the usual way.   Then run the application and walk through the wizard at the first startup:   Next Vyberte hodinky Podpůrná aplikace   Go to Play and install Watchmaker After startup, the welcome screen appears, click Next Now you have to choose your watch.   As you can see, there is a lot of. Now you need to install the accompanying application to your watch, it's actually a programmable watchface. You will be redirected to Galaxy Apps. Click Install here. The application will be transferred to your watch. Click "Use" to set the dial. Enable access to the repository. Check your watch     Brrr... Fortunately, this is only the default watchface that we will quickly change.   Creating a watchface We go to the app on your phone Přepnout na editaci Switch to edit Vytvořit ciferník Create watchface New watch New watch A jsme tam Here we are Informace Information Press the button at the bottom right to get to your own watchfaces At the top right of the menu, press ... Select   New watch You see an empty watchface, press the large green button Now we can fill in the clock description   Press the "+" button, a list of the elements we can use appears:   Select "   Numbers   " at the beginning, then press "   +   " again to select "   Hour + Minute markers   " We see that we are nicely composed next to each other, respectively,   above each other.   Now add the hands: Výběr ručiček Select hands Vlastnosti Properties Rotace Rotation Minutová Minute hand Sekundová Second hand Look at the properties of the hands.   We see that they have a preset   Rotation   property.   If you're curious and click on that feature, you can explore what's all about.   Only preset values ​​for hours, minutes, and seconds are meaningful for rotation.   When we leave the editor, we can check how the watchface piece looks.   We see that the second hand jumps in seconds.   If we want the motion to be smooth, we will change the Rotation property setting so that instead of {drs} it will be {drss}.   We can use preset values ​​or write it manually, it does not matter.   Now the movement of the second hand will be smooth:   Another interesting feature is Display.   This determines whether the layer should only be displayed when the display is on, only when it is off or always.   We see that the second hand is hidden when the display is dimmed.   That's because Watchmaker does not support animation when the display is dimmed.   We are patriots, so we want to boast of our membership in the Samsung Community.   But because we are lazy patriots and do not want to do with graphics, we use only the text   Text Text Změna pozice a velikosti Change position and size Editace vrstev Layers Přesun Movement Press "+", select Text and type "Samsung Community".   OK, but the text is now in the middle and very big!   So let's go a little down in the properties and change the size of the text to 30. Now either by changing the value of Position X and Y or by simply dragging, move the text where you want. But there are more complications - the text is displayed above the hand!   So keep a finger on the relevant layer icon and after a while the crosses will appear on the layers and the icons will start to shake.   The cross is used to remove the layer, but we do not want it now.  H old our finger on the text layer until the "Duplicate layer" menu appears.  I gnore it (it fits when creating more similar elements), but now we can move the layer.   We move it to the left, it gets under the hands.   And now it looks more natural.   We have a watch with hands.   What we're going to do is not let anyone down.   They're a smart watch, so they might see weather and battery information, right?   Press "+" again, select Weather, there are several icon sets available.  S elect a set and the big weather icon is displayed.   Again, we reduce it and move it to a better position.   We'll do the same with the battery icon.   Here you can choose if we want to show the battery information in your watch or on your phone.   Just be careful: because we're on the phone now, both values ​​will be the same in the editor!   The article is splitted because of 30000 characters limitation. ... View more