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Heat Pump HTQuiet and controller config

(Topic created on: 20-02-2023 12:29 PM)
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Tom Van Woensel
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hi all,

I have been playing with the configurations over the past weeks.

The installer indicates that he set the Samsung LCD controller as the thermostat. I managed to organize all the water law stuff, etc. It is getting warm in the house now. Not many problems there. The cold days I had a COP of 3 on average, now approaching 4. So that seems to be more or less "in control". 

Without an additional external thermostat, #2091 and #2092 should be zero = not used (according to the manual), and #2093 should be put to any of these values (default = 4): 

0 Not use
1 Use signal only on/off
2 Use (signal on/off) or WL interlink off (water pump 1)
3 Use (signal on/off) or WL interlink off (water pump 2)
4 Use (signal on/off) or WL interlink off (water pump 3)

These values seem to behave similarly to the ones described in the manual on page 28. The standard temperature is set to "indoor". The Samsung LCD controller gives the right indoor temperature in the room (double-checked with some other devices in the same room). 

The issue: the controller triggers based on the ambient temperature: if the room is getting below 20C, it starts the heat pump to heat the radiators following the water law (WC). However, it keeps on doing this and does not seem to "stop" the heat pump once it reaches the required temperature... The above values try to reduce hysteresis, but, also, option 1 does not trigger an "off". I first thought it had something to do with the difference that needs to be larger than a threshold value (Indoor Zone option -> Temperature unit -> 0.1/0.5/1, but that seems incorrect, more for setting the temperature). 

The inside temperature sometimes goes up to 21C. It does, however, stop sometimes for whatever reason, I can not get my hands on it. 

My reasoning now is that the "Use (signal on/off) or WL interlink off" does not trigger the signal off. But it stops because of the "WL interlink off"... I have no idea what the WL interlink is. My best guess now is that it has to do with #4052, the target deltaT, as usually, in the course of the afternoon, with warmer temperatures, the heat pump is triggered to stop. My eye also fell to #4061 for "zone control", no idea what this is... 

Does anybody know what the WL interlink logic is doing and how I control this? Anybody any clue why the "signal on/off" only triggers on and no 'off"?

thanks for any help or pointer...

tom

 

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3 REPLIES 3
Bogdan26
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I would like to see a reply from Samsung. I’m also having dificulties understaning how this works.

 

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KholaI
Moderator
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Hey @Tom Van Woensel 

Was this purchased via our Business site? If so, click on the following link and scroll down and tap on 'Contact us' to send in a form regarding your query: https://www.samsung.com/uk/business/climate/mono-ht-quiet/

 

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Misenko
First Poster
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I hope you've already resolved the issue but it is because the water law triggered before thermostat signal on/off. This happens if the pump is not able to expel the heat anymore to the water because dT difference is getting smaller and dT not satisfied. So usually this happen in warmer days. You need to balance the pump, heating curves that the pump can work as long as possible and in warmer days it heat and then stop for a while. Also don't know if you have PWM pump but it's absolutely crucial for this HP to work optimally. Before I've used water law only and when there was +5C and more outside the pump has cycled like crazy. Basically it was on for 5 minutes and off for 3 minutes and round and round again. It was not acceptable so I've tuned some stuff - especially switched to indoor temperature control and now it heats and then turn off for hour or two. What absolutely don't like and don't understand why SAMSUNG is using 1.0C hysteresis and it's not possible to customize to your own. So when I set 22C it heats up to 23C and then cool down to 22C. 0.5C hysteresis would be much better for comfort.

So it would be great if Samsung implements this into controller firmware. Must be easy to do. 

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