So my 27" G7 seems to be having an issue where the screen will go black randomly and seemingly for no reason, IT DOESNT FLICKER, it goes black and stays black (backlight still on, OSD unavailable). The ONLY way I have found to solve the issue is to hold the power button down for 5-6 seconds which seemingly resets the monitor as all my settings are then lost (or turning it off and back on by unplugging the power).
I have only noticed the screen going black when gaming or watching Youtube 😕
I really hope there is a fix out there as I dont want to have to go through the hassle of sending it back and then waiting for a replacement, especially when Samsung Customer Support have already told me this can take 2 weeks total (out of stock atm so god knows how long it would actually take). I am also working from home due to lockdown and its my only monitor currently. If there isnt a fix and my only option is to send it back, I will likely just refund and find another monitor, which I dont want to do either as I really like this one (when it works lol).
I am running an older build PC (6700k, GTX 980 Ti, 16GB RAM) so dont know if this maybe has something to do with it? I have a new build sat next to me but waiting for a 3080 so unfortunately I cant test my theory.
So far I have tried:
Thanks in advance to anyone that gives me advice or anything else to try that I may have missed.
As far as Valorant goes, enabling "enhanced vsync" in the driver solved the issue but I can see the monitor hovering at around 110-130hz in that mode and gpu on full blast. Other option is to limit fps to 220 - 230 in game with adaptive sync on. Most elegant one is custom refresh rate (if 250Hz works why not) with freesync off, vsync on and radeon antilag on. IMO freesync is pointless in games that exceed max refresh rate. It can introduce unnecessary flicker/scanlines etc. Monitor is always happier in "constant refresh rate". Valorant isn't a demanding game. I get ludicrous 1200+ fps when uncapped.
In my case going to the same location pre fix would very occasionally glitch. I would really have to stand in very specific spot looking in specific direction for a longer while. Nothing as extreme as in your case.
So realisticly in my case if the monitor would glitch and recover once every hour (ok once every two) I can live with it. The big problem i had was that it would not recover.
I had a BenQ lcd for 10 yrs. before, that would also randomly blackout for a second once every few hours or go out of sync during resolution switching. Had iiyama crt that would slowly shift screen position as it warmed up... Quirks of "budget highend"
As for fix:
I can belive that changing the main board might alleviate the issue. It might be that you just lost the silicon lottery or have cooling shield screwed up that makes the problem more apparent or gpu display port signal quality. I would not expect the issue to be fully resolved until monitor mobo or cooling gets revised.
As for unrecoverable black screen it happens to me when vrr is on or if I create custom resolution with wrong blanking/porch values. You want to stick to original EDID values wich are not the same as CVT-RB.
i open my monitor and also the heatsink what's not making any contact to the mainchip, i ended up putting thermal conductive tape to the chip and turn freesync and vrr ON so the refresh rate doesn't go to high. i came to the conclusion that they put vrr on the monitor software to prevent overheat at high refresh rates so basically the monitor in terms of how is supposed to work is a disaster of engineering. But i think also that the software needs to be fix to work at 240h flawlessly
From my observations VRR control is a smoothing filter that smooths out backlight control (as opposed to freesync/gsync chip direct control). Alt-tab from full black screen to bright desktop to see the effect. It actually increases computational complexity and thus heat output but marginally. It appears that there is a problem with free-sync/g sync when in LFC (when fps drops below freesync range). Apparently very high (80hz) lower range for freesync is to blame. I belive Gpu has some handshake problems on how many times a frame should be redrawn. For example a 60 fps can be redrawn 2,3,4 times and technically monitor supports 60 Hz. So when fps hovers between let's say 50-70 you get the flicker.
I had a similar problem whilst using
I am using a mac pro, I found this issue while gaming, I solved the issue by using an app called
I believe the issue is caused by the gpu not pushing enough power to the monitor, I don't think the issue is with the monitor, I adjusted the game settings to slightly lower (Fortnite) and keep turboboost enabled I'm sure there are alternatives for windows, this allows the gpu to increase it's power to the monitor or something similar to that, however since I installed turboboost I have had no issues with the monitor.
the issue is i get the flicker without freesync and also what it does to any app that i have opened,it turns black sometimes.also now whats happening i get my homescreen black or white sometimes never happened before with my older monitor
As much as I appreciate the DIY spirit, and found the insight fascinating, I've had to remove wlaziu's post as per the Community TOS: https://eu.community.samsung.com/t5/computers-it/community-policy-on-dangerous-diy-unorthodox-repair...
But I'll see what I can do to get the info/feedback in that post (and in this thread) back to the relevant people at Samsung.
Thanks for forward. My monitor after the heat sink reseat appears to work perfectly fine.
The only other things that I have changed is removing the terminal cover to improve cooling and thus different cable routing (less bending)
It works even with vrr on? I did the same thing as you and still have the black screen with vrr on, but it fixed with vrr off. I used KingPin thermal paste on the heatsink, can I know what did you use?
It works. But it is not only about the thermal paste. The second part is the weak springs that exert pressure. The thermal pads need to squeeze more to better conduct heat. Anyway the whole solution to the problem is to improve cooling of those 2 chips. How you improve it is really up to you. Removing back cover, extra radiators, improved airflow anything will do.